What Does Non-Comedogenic Skincare Even Mean?

Comedogenicity. A word that’s somehow even harder to say than it is to spell.  

Often mistaken as just how oily a product is, comedogenicity actually refers to the likelihood that a product, ingredient, or formula will clog your pores (and cause blackheads, whiteheads, and breakouts). Ergo: non-comedogenic means a product that shouldn’t do that.

But just like all things in the world of skincare formulations—nothing is quite that simple. A product’s comedogenicity and how it interacts with your skin is a much more complicated beast. 

What does non-comedogenic mean?

The word comedogenic comes from the term comedones—that’s the scientific name for a  pimple or blemish caused by sebum (oil), dead skin cells, or hairs ‘blocking’ pores.

If something is considered comedogenic, that means it causes said comedones. 

If something is considered non-comedogenic—like ingredients, formulas, and products—then they shouldn’t cause comedones.

How do you test comedogenicity?

The first initial comedogenicity tests were actually done on the inside of a rabbit’s ear. (This was all the way back in the ‘70s). They’ve since evolved into tests with human subjects through a fancy, science-y process called cyanoacrylate follicular biopsies. 

Individual ingredients, formulas, and products are tested for comedogenicity by being literally applied to human skin. Over weeks to months, scientists then study how they interact with the skin and the extent of pore congestion caused. 

Of course, nothing in the world of science is that easy. “As a cosmetic chemist the term "non-comedogenic" can trigger some skepticism,” explains Go-To’s Senior Formulation Chemist, Ingrid. “It's not a regulated term. That's because it's a tricky thing to standardise; what might contribute to a breakout for someone could be someone else's skin salvation.”

“When formulating our products [comedogenicity] is always something we will consider, especially products intended for more oily/breakout prone customers.”

How does Go-To test a product’s comedogencity?

“There are a few different ways comedogenicity can be tested,” shares Ingrid.

“At Go-To, our development phase will involve a lot of in-use testing. When we are confident in a product we will then send it out to an external clinic for testing under the supervision of a professional or dermatologist. This will usually involve a group of testers who are prone to breakouts trialling the product and the clinic examining their skin for the presence of breakouts or clogged pores. From there, we review results to ensure we can substantiate our claims.”

Should I use non-comedogenic skincare?

Non-comedogenic skincare can be great for all skin types—but its oily, combination, and acne-prone skin haver-ers that should take notice.  

Since oily and acne-prone skin is more susceptible to excess oil and dead skin cells building up, it’s best to reach for skincare that isn’t going to exacerbate this issue.

For seriously dry skin, comedogenic products and their rich, emollient qualities can actually be helpful—forming a protective barrier that locks in moisture. 

It’s definitely a face by face, situation.

Can a product that’s non-comedogenic still cause congestion?

Yes! And a comedogenic product might not cause congestion. Confusing. 

Skincare is extremely personal. That means how you react to certain ingredients and products will be personal as well.

While it’s less likely for a non-comedogenic product to cause congestion, it definitely can still happen. We all have very individualised sensitivities to specific ingredients, even when they’re considered non-comedogenic.

On the flip side, some products might contain comedogenic ingredients but not cause comedones due to the other ingredients that balance or dilute the comedogenicity. With this in mind, even when a product has no comedogenic ingredients, it can still be comedogenic on the skin due to the formula’s specific combination.

So is comedogenicity causing your congestion?

Maybe! Maybe not!

It can be helpful if you’re experiencing a bout of congestion when starting a new product, to check if the skincare you’re using is listed as non-comedogenic. If it’s not, that should probably be your prime suspect.

But remember! Congestion isn't always caused by skincare products. Environmental changes, stress, hormones, and pollution can all play a ginormous role in what your skin is doing. As Ingrid says: “Summer holidays, like any deviation from the routine, can feel unpredictable when it comes to your skin. Be kind and be conscious that many environmental and lifestyle factors can trigger breakouts. Most importantly make sure to be sun-smart!”